Відео

In most cases I would not recommend PPF or Vinyl wrapping. Only because 90% of people who get these do not maintain them. You should be removing and reapplying PPF for vinyl every few years or so. Even if it isn't cracking or peeling. The adhesive can permanently damage paint (especially on plastic parts) when being removed. Also if you do not get a full PPF or vinyl wrap, any exposed paint will wear at a different rate than what's covered by the PPF so you'll end up with "tan lines" on your car.

I'll try this next time! How hot do you need to heat up the lip?

you're not far off...

😅😅

There's going to be some happy people to hear that!

A lot of other owners have done that as well and I was just having the most awful time trying to get the pin out. But it's good to know there's more than one way to skin the cat!

💯💯 or you're willing to it removed and new PPF reapplied all over your car (no exposed paint) every 3 or so years.

Absolutely do not wish it on even my enemies.

In the video this would apply to vacuum lines. I don't have any experience with using it for evap leaks, but from what I've read you can commonly use a smoke test for evap as well. Have you tried replacing the gas cap with an OEM gas cap? That is a common failure of the evap system and sometimes those auto parts replacements dont seal very well.

I've only used it a few times and its still working good for me. We are using cheap soldering irons (to keep costs low) so maybe that has something to do with it. Considering how expensive smoke machines are, a $5 soldering iron every so often might not be a bad trade off for some who just needs a smoker for light use.

Awesome! Glad you found it useful!

Glad you had fun with this project! Just steal the speaker and plop it into your 3D printed case! 😄😄

I think the advantage the Meisters had (at least the model I had on the miata) is that it has digressive valving. This means that on the street where bumps are small and very often, the shocks will be comfortable but on the track where the compression is more large and longer strokes, itll be nice and solid. I think more comparable would be their BC Racing's DS line which says it has Digressive Valving.

Yeah that would just be a limitation on what sound boards are off-the-shelf and on the market. If I ever come across a sound board that can have the same functionality, I'll definitely update! But still not bad for a budget DIY version!

Thanks. This was my first big project (For me). It was my first time using an angle grinder! Of course since this video was made I have learned how to weld (sort of) and if I were to do it again I'd probably use a belt sander and reciprocating saw to make the cuts.

let us know how it goes!

@@HazardGarage It went...That is a lot of work. I now know why it cost so much for removal. Mine came off in 1/4" pieces. Those plastic razor blades are a must.

@@mosslager absolute must! Glad it came off....eventually lol

lets goooo

thanks!

Replacing crush washers is always recommended because its a cheap insurance for leaks (a few cents). With that said though, I don't replace crush washers if everything was fine, and many many others do the same with no issues. Check your torque settings on the bolts to make sure you torqued it down enough. Not sure if there will be a difference between aluminum vs copper. But I can be wrong. Make sure your surface is clean of debris and if you want a little insurance you can always try adding a very thinnnn layer of RTV black for some extra sealing. Make sure you read the instructions on curing the RTV.

Thanks! Yeah it was not fun lol. My honest opinion on PPF is for a majority of people, avoid it at all costs. These things are supposed to be replaced every like 3 or so years. to avoid cracking and the adhesive degrading and ripping off paint. If you cannot afford to do that, don't get it. Also PPF will give your car "tan lines" over time as the exposed parts of your paint will age/fade quicker than what's covered by PPF. This is my opinion.

@@HazardGarage Just bought 2017 SS Camaro 50th, has PPF all over the place, that's what brought me to your video, it's already pretty milky looking and coming up around the edges, so I'm wondering what I should do next. And how much money I'm going to have to spend. And I have to admit that the Film did it's job, many places I can see if its wasn't there my Paint would have been damaged. Anyway thanks, great Video!

Congrats! I forget these cars are 20 years OLD! But if taken care of, they definitely have potential for crazy longevity. Good luck on your build and thanks for checking mine out!

I dont know if the mini cats helped. For me it was just playing with the distance of the spacing. But really more modern cars are bit more sensitive so its a gamble. Frustrating, I know..

sorry i am not sure

yeah the space is suuuuper tight even when i lifted the engine up (although the more you can lift it, the more clearance you'll gain). Get some 1/4 rachets, sockets and extensions. The good news is the torque spec is only 4.7 ft/lbs so its relatively to loosen the bolts. Then use your fingers to get it all the way out as you'll lose clearance as the bolt moves out and your tool wont fit.

thanks!

glad to hear they made those improvements! maybe i should hit em up lol 😅😅

glad you found the video useful!

sorry for the late reply. steamer is the safest way to add heat but I can understand a good steamer is kind of pricey. The steamer I used was super small and light duty so it took longer. you can definitely use a heat gun. Just apply heat in a sweeping motion for like 5 seconds at a time on low setting. You only really need to just warm up the PPF to get it to loosen up. Don't worry too much as to melt any plastic you'd have to let the heat gun sit in one spot for like a minute or two. If the adhesive is still too strong after you heat it up, heat it up for like a few seconds more until you find out what works best. this will not be a quick process regardless and damage to paint is still possible (especially on plastic because paint isnt as strong on plastic as it is on metal parts) even if you do everything right. This is why I am super ANTI-PPF because you are supposed to replace that crap every few years but no one ever does. Good luck!

@@HazardGarage no worry’s! thank you so much i appreciate it a lot :) I’ll definitely try to do that, it has spots I need to touch up anyways so mabye i shouldn’t be to worried about the paint, again, thank you so much!

so there are different modes available that are dependent on if there is a resister applied or not. You'll see on the board its labeled as "A B C". By default there should be a resister soldered on "A B and C" That the instructions found on the product description page as "001" 1 denoting no resister. By default it should be "000" as in resisters on all 3 spots. You can always contact try returning via Amazon and get a replacement. By default from the factory it should only play once.

@@HazardGarage thanks for answering even though this is such an old video! Thank you!

bro I almooossstt installed it with a badly seated gasket. Would have sucked! Definitely take your time seating the rubber gasket and definitely pay attention to the diagram in the video that tells you the proper RTV placement. Remember RTV takes some time to cure before you can torque everything down. It comes out as like a gel, you let it dry per the instructions, then it becomes more rubbery, which is when you torque it down. If you torque it down too soon or run oil through it, you can definitely leak. The RTV should have instructions, make sure to follow them! Good luck!

Thanks man for the description, I'm definitely going to read the instructions better this time. Let the RTV dry before torqueing I didn't know that, thanks. I think it is also complicated to place the joint perfectly with so little space but that clearly takes time. Thanks again! 👍

@@LucasE.Flores yeah its definitely tricky. Take your time. Definitely dont want to do the job more than once lol

Thanks and welcome aboard!

😂😂 if it works it works!

Yup! About 4 quarts should fill up your transmission and 1 quart should be just about right for the rear diff.

glad you found it helpful!

not really on the MaxPeeding rods unless you take out all the preload but then youll be bottoming out the shocks. You should be able to go lower with the Meisters but you still will hit a limit. That is why they make specialty coilovers for those who want to slam their cars.